Venice and Persia are over 4000 kilometers away from each other. But such a distance did not discourage Venetian merchants or Persian ambassadors from keeping a solid relationship. In fact, Venetians had looked for contacts already in the 9th century. Especially at the time of Marco Polo, in the 13th century, all the way throughout the 17th century, the Doge’s Republic of Venice and Persians felt very close. For different reasons.
Gabriele Caliari, Persian Ambassadors meeting Doge Marino Grimani in 1603, Doge’s Palace, Hall of the Four Doors, early 17th century. Detail of the fabrics donated by Persians
Silk Roads
The route Marco Polo with his father and uncle took to reach Beijing brought them to Acre by ship. They then moved to Armenia. From Armenia they reached Persia and in particular the city of Hormuz, by the Persian Gulf. The Silk Roads would then spread across Asia — some would connect the regions of the Indian Subcontinent with China, Mongolia hundreds of years before Christianity. On the way back from Beijing to Venice, again it was Hormuz where Marco Polo stopped, reaching the port via ship to then move back to Venice.
Parthi (Persians): detail of Dome of the Pentecost in St Mark’s Basilica, Venice, 12th century
Dome of the Pentecost in St Mark’s Basilica, Venice, 12th century
Hormuz and the Fondamenta degli Ormesini
Hormuz: does this name sound familiar to Venice lovers?
In the northern district of Venice, Cannaregio, you will likely stroll along a side bank called Fondamenta degli Ormesini. Starting soon after the return of Marco Polo from Asia in the late 1200s, Cannaregio became the weaving district of Venice and one of its main streets was then called “ormesini”, a Venetian word for precious light silk cloths originally coming from… Hormuz.
Nizioleto by Fondamenta degli Ormesini, Cannaregio, Venice
And if it is true that Venetians preferred their own production rather than selling foreign merchandise, it is also true that for the “ormesini” they made an exception so high in demand they were!
Fondamenta degli Ormesini, Cannaregio, Venice
Have you heard the word “taftà”? It is also spelled “taffeta”, but it comes from the Persian word tāfta (تافته), which means “twisted, plaited” and in Venice you would hear that word frequently. It refers to luminescent silk textile that has a quite stiff, crisp feeling. Perfect synonym for elegance and refined fabrics.
As we know, the silk roads were used to transport more than silk. Herbs, sugar, ginger and saffron, honey, pearls, lapis lazuli reached Venice thanks to this amazing network across different continents. More cities in Persia would be part of this network: Tabriz and the Gilan province by the Caspian Sea and later on Isfahan.
From trading silk and spices to a different relationship
After Marco Polo, Venetian merchants for centuries would explore these routes, stopping by the several caravanserai, where international travelers were exposed to an unprecedented cultural exchange… Until the political situation for Venice experienced a major turn in the middle of the 15th century and so would the relationship between Venice and Persia.
The Ottoman Empire expansion
When Ottomans conquered the Byzantine empire in 1453, access to the Black Sea became more difficult for Venetian trade with the Levant. The result was Venetians intensified contacts with Egypt to restart a connection with Persia (and China). Too bad that in the meanwhile Portuguese Vasco de Gama circumnavigated Cape of Good Hope and bypassed the Mediterranean routes. And how did Venetians feel when, just a few years later, Ottomans conquered Syria and Egypt, too?
Fondaco dei Turchi: the ancient warehouse for muslim merchants along the Grand Canal included premises for Arabs, Ottomans and Persians starting in the 17th century
Believe it or not, it was then when the relationship between Venice and Persia got even stronger. In fact, Venice became the country with which Persia would entertain the most intense relationship in whole Europe!
But this time it was not silk or other kinds of textiles, or silver and gold, spices or precious stones that were at stake, but weapons. Persia, now run by the Safavids, might become an ally against the Ottoman Empire.
In other words: left alone to fight the Ottomans, Venice hoped the alliance with Persia could make them stronger. Venice would attack the Ottoman Empire from the West, Persia could attack from the East.
A possible military alliance between Venice and Persia
Already before the Safavids, the Persian Aq Qoyunlu State had already shown interest in a friendship based on military strategies. In order to establish an anti-Ottoman league, in 1472 a Persian ambassador arrived in Venice with an important gift. In the treasury of St Mark’s Basilica, you can admire that present: a turquoise glass bowl, silver gilt, featuring gold cloisonné enamel and stones, dating back to the 10th century. The Persian ambassador asked for weapons, artillery and arquebuses.
Cup in turquoise glass with frame in silver, Iran 10th century, St Mark’s Basilica Treasury
I know, you will wonder, weren’t Ottomans and Persians all Muslims? How comes that instead of trying to be friends with the Ottomans, Persians preferred to ally with Christians?
Well, Persian were Shia Islamic, Turks were Sunni Islamic. Moreover, Ottomans expanded their power over territories belonging to Persia, too. Venice and Persia therefore found an enemy in common and protected each other. And Venetian weapons were of high technology, too.
The hope to establish a reciprocal military support brought to an even stronger trade bond in the 16th and 17th century. Glass beads, mirrors from Venice were truly appreciated by Persian ladies of the high society. Venice became the most relevant importer of Persian carpets and on Easter festivities Persian carpets would hang from the beautiful palaces in Venice.
And have you heard of the “cuoridoro”, the famous painted and gilded leather used as wall paper for the luxury homes in Venice? Well, they were originally imported from Persia, but then Venetian craftsmen started making them, too, and they made them so well that they exported some back to Persia. Same story with book binding in leather.
Craft of the “cuoridoro” or “leather in gold”; Giovanni Grevembroch, 18th century, Venice
Venice meeting Persia in the Doge’s palace
In the Doge’s palace in the Hall of the Four Doors, the waiting chamber for foreign ambassadors, you can enjoy a painting by Gabriele Caliari showing Doge Marino Grimani meeting with Fethi Bay, a dignitary in fine silk dress, golden cloak. Fethi Bay was sent by Shah Abbas the Great in 1603 to Venice to ask for artillery and fine combat equipment.
Nine gifts
He brought nine gifts, among which one mantle of gold embroidered fabric, a velvet carpet with gold threads, fifty meters of fabrics with gold embroidered patterns and more plain fabrics, weapons and a most exquisite embroidered velvet cloth featuring the Virgin Mary nursing baby Jesus (see cover image for this post).
Kandjar, a type of dagger with a curved blade, beginning of 17th century, Persia; part of seven daggers now housed in the Armory of the Doge’s palace in Venice with hilts in brass or silver
Carpet detail from Persia, dating back to the 17th century, St Mark’s Basilica museum, Venice
Carpet detail from Persia, dating back to the 17th century, St Mark’s Basilica museum, Venice
These presents are still in Venice. When we observe them, some in the Doge’s palace, some in St Mark’s basilica treasury and museum, we know this military alliance never materialized. For several reasons, starting from the fact that Venetians would try to establish commercial deals with Ottomans, also thanks to Sephardic Jews. But, at the end, Venice and Persia went back to the trade relationship they had started with, likely because it promised more than fostering major international conflicts.
by Luisella Romeo
registered tourist guide in Venice, Italy
www.seevenice.it
I’ll be sure to think about Hormuz next time I walk down Fondamenta degli Ormesini. Thanks for the educational post!
Thank you for reading! The whole district must have been very fabrics devoted. Now, very different…